What to do about rings that will not stay face up

This is a very common problem, and one with a large number of solutions. Every finger is different: the best way to obtain a customized solution for your ring is to bring it in for us to look at. We can consult with you personally on the options that fit your finger, and give you the best information for your needs.

The following is a general overview of all the options available.

For regular fingers (with slightly oval knuckles), the muscles are oval and slightly larger than the knuckle, with a small to medium “pocket” at the point where the finger joins to the hand.

Correct fit: When putting your ring on, it should clear the knuckle freely and then feel snug as it compresses the muscle while sliding on. The ring should fit snugly into the “pocket”, with sufficient friction to stay upright.

Rings that rotate on this type of hand are often top-heavy and have two major factors contributing to the problem: they could be hollowed out at the top with only thin rails contacting the finger, or are very thin at the back. This type of ring is loose in the pocket and lacks sufficient friction to stay upright.

Here is a ring that is both hollowed out at the top and thin at the back.

The easiest solution to this problem is to re-make the ring wide enough at the back, so it bridges the “pocket” and engages the muscle.

This model is wider at the bottom than it is at the top which will help it engage the muscle while still looking sleek when it's on your finger.

An alternative is to apply a plate across the inside of the top to increase friction, as shown here:

In extreme cases you may need  to do both. This will usually correct the problem.

For non-standard fingers; that is, Fingers with smaller muscles than regular sized knuckles,

   Fingers with enlarged knuckles and regular muscles or

   Fingers with enlarged knuckles and small muscles,

there are a variety of measures and appliances that can be employed.

The simplest solution to a wide, oval knuckle is to reshape the hole to a matching oval.  The ring is then applied sideways to clear the knuckle and rotated 90 degrees to continue over the muscle and into the “pocket”.

There are appliances that fit inside the ring that ride up and down to compensate for the variations in diameter. The inexpensive “sizers” do not work well as the legs that attach them to the shank are folded over to overlap on the outside. They often become an irritant to the adjoining fingers.  Also, they only work well on rings that are the same size all along the side. The better version of this idea floats on a spring system and doesn’t have to slide on the ring. The attaching tabs are at the bottom rather than the sides. These work well and are still modestly priced. Shown below is the floating spring option set with tabs not yet fixed to the ring.

Both of these are temporary fixes and will last from a few months to a few years. These will help if the variation in diameter is less than a full size.

One advantage to these ways of solving the problem is that there is no heat required to attach the appliance. All of the following do require heat above 1500 degrees. If your ring has heat sensitive stones, they must be removed and re-installed after the work is done. For example, consider a silver ring with a large Amethyst. If we heat the ring with the stone in, it can transform into a Citrine or go completely colourless. Similarly, an Emerald in a gold ring could crack or shatter from the heat. Other than Diamond, all stones are sensitive to heat to some degree.

The easiest permanent fix requires soldering small spheres onto the inside surface at the “4” and “8” o’clock positions. The balls give extra rollover resistance while remaining invisible and work by riding, unfelt, in the hollows of the muscle on each side. They vary from ¼ of a millimeter to ½ a mm. This attack works on variations of up to one size.

The picture below shows two samples with the small spheres. Both samples have the spheres at different locations, depending on the size of the ring and the finger it will sit on.

Next up is the “harp”, a lyre shaped insert that is permanently fixed to the inside bottom of the ring with two arms that can flex to allow passage over the knuckle and then return to clasp the sides of the finger. Elegant and effective, this alternative works up to a size and a half in variation. A harp not yet soldered to the ring is shown below.

For fingers with arthritis or where the variation is greater than two sizes, we have two alternatives. The less expensive consists of two interlocked hinged flat sections that can slide over each other like a baby bracelet. They can extend up to four sizes and compress back down when in position. While the ring looks the same from the front, a drawback is that this is not a very pretty option when viewed from the back. This option is shown below in its fully compressed position.

Finally, we come to the best, and most expensive, of the variable ring backs: the “finger fit shank”™. It matches the appearance and shape of the original ring except at the very back where the locking mechanism is located. It is hinged, opens up to accommodate five sizes in variance and is very secure. It has a stainless steel insert that prevents the ring from opening up all the way and falling off. It locks in a manner very similar to that of a key ring. We generally put these on high value pieces like engagement rings.

Here is a ring fitted with the “finger fit shank”™. The ring is fully closed and the locking mechanism is engaged.

This picture shows the locking mechanism while it's open.

 

Here is the “finger fit shank”™ when it is completely open.  

And here you can see that the ring looks no different from the top when fitted with the“finger fit shank”™.

As always, there are exceptions to the rules. The best way to determine how to correct your specific problem is to come in with the piece and your finger to let us examine it. We can then show you what the appropriate options are and you can choose what you want.

To view some of our work, go to www.westdalejewellers.com. If you have any questions, or want to book a consultation with us, give us a call at 905.777.1101.